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  • Six Foot Engineered Strand Woven "click system" Bamboo Installation guidelines

    Click here for PDF of Strand Woven "click system" Bamboo Flooring Installation Guidelines

    Strand Woven Engineered Bamboo “Click System”  Flooring



    Carefully examine the wood flooring prior to installation for color, finish, and quality. Ensure adequate lighting for proper inspection. Higuera Hardwoods cannot accept responsibility for flooring installed with visible defects.

    Prior to installation of any flooring, the installer must ensure that the jobsite and subfloor meet the requirements of these instructions. Higuera Hardwoods is not responsible for flooring failure resulting from inadequate jobsite and/or subfloor conditions.

    Our hardwood flooring should be one of the last items installed in any construction or remodel project. All work involving water/moisture should be completed before the flooring installation. Water and wood do not mix. Installing flooring onto a wet subfloor will most likely cause cupping, tip & edge raising, telegraphing of core and subsequent gapping.

    Permanent HVAC should be on and operational and maintained between 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit with relative humidity of 35%-60% for a minimum of 3 days prior to delivery, as well as during and after installation of the flooring. Humidity levels below 35% will most likely cause movement in the flooring, including gapping; possible cupping and cracking/checking on the floor face material. Installation of Higuera Hardwoods strand engineered click bamboo flooring in areas where the relative humidity may go below 35% and when humidification equipment is not used continuously to keep humidity above 35% in, the space will void all warranties.

    Store strand woven engineered bamboo click system flooring in the UNOPENED boxes at installation area for 24 -72 hours before installation to allow the flooring to adjust to room temperature and humidity levels. Do not store the boxes of flooring directly on concrete. Our strand engineered wood floors DO NOT need any moisture equalization prior to installation from open boxes and should be installed from just-opened boxes. DO NOT OPEN more than a few boxes in advance of installation and only the number of boxes that will be installed within the next couple of hours.

    Only open enough boxes to ensure a good mix of lengths and color.

    Radiant Heat:

    Higuera Hardwoods engineered click system strand woven bamboo flooring is exclusively warranted over Warmup (www.warmup.com ) electrical wire and/or matt systems, as well as the use of pipe radiant heat systems. If used only as a floating installation method. Warmup wire systems maybe nail down with a heat rated padding used over the electrical or water heat systems.

    Radiant heat system rated underlayment’s MUST always be used to avoid possible fire.

    It is very important to note that the entire room or area used with radiant heat systems and any of the approved Higuera Hardwoods flooring products, that the ENTIRE room or area must be heated. If and where there is break from the heating systems under the flooring, a transition must be installed to allow the wood to expand and contract as needed over the heat systems- so as to not affect the non-heated flooring areas. Partially heated areas in a room are not warranted without proper transition breaks installed.

    For electric wire or mat systems, the subfloor, and/or system should never exceed 80°F or be capable of exceeding 80 degrees. Check with the radiant heat manufacturers suggested guidelines to limit the maximum temperature. Run heating system for at least two weeks prior to flooring installation. Set heating system at 75°F four days before flooring installation and bring heat up very slowly (over a period of 7 days) after installation. The system should always be kept within 15°F of normal operating temperature. If the system must be turned off and on for extended periods, bring the temperature back up very slowly. Damage may result from rapid reheating and/or rapid shedding of moisture that the wood may have taken on while the system was on.

    For pipe water systems, the subfloor and/or pipe system should never exceed 80°F. Check with the radiant heat manufacturers suggested guidelines to limit the maximum water temperature inside heating pipes. Run heating system for at least two weeks prior to flooring installation. Set heating system at 65°F four days before flooring installation and bring heat up very slowly (over a period of 7 days) after installation. The system should always be kept within 15°F of normal operating temperature. If the system must be turned off and on, bring the temperature back up VERY slowly. Damage may result from rapid heating and/or rapid shedding of moisture that the wood may have taken on while the system was off.

    While many customers have used this flooring successfully over radiant heat systems, Higuera Hardwoods cannot be held responsible in situations where the radiant heat system was or is not operated and/or installed properly. After a floor has been damaged, it is impossible for a manufacturer to conclude conclusively whether or not improper use was the cause. If the radiant heat systems are run at excessive temperatures adhesive failure may also occur. Humidity levels must be maintained at a stable rate as noted above to provide ideal conditions for the flooring to perform as intended, some board settling might occur if proper humidity levels are not maintained, this may result in some noise while using the floor.


    Acceptable subfloor types:

    CDX plywood - at least 5/8" thick for joist spacing up to 16" on center, minimum 3/4" thick for joist spacing greater than 16" on center (19.2" maximum)

    Underlayment grade particleboard (minimum 40 lb. density) - floating

    OSB - at least 3/4" thick, PS 2-92 rated or PS 1-95 rated

    Concrete slab - floating

    Existing wood floor –floating

    Ceramic tile - floating only

    Resilient tile & sheet vinyl - floating only

    All Subfloors must be:  Dry and will remain dry year-round. Moisture content of wood sub floors must not exceed 13%, wood flooring moisture content must be within 4% of wood subfloor moisture content, and concrete must not exceed 3 lbs. per Calcium Chloride Test (test method ASTM 1869-89).

    All subfloors must be structurally sound

    Clean: thoroughly sweep and free of all debris.

    Level: Flat to 3/16" per 10-foot radius

    Wood subfloors must be dry and well secured. Nail or screw every 6" along joists to avoid squeaking. If not level, sand down high spots and fill low spots with an underlayment patch.

    Concrete subfloors must be fully cured, at least 60 days old, and should have minimum 6-mil polyfilm between concrete and ground. Subfloor should be flat and level within 3/16" per 10' radius. If necessary, grind high spots down and level low spots with Ardex Leveling Compound. All concrete should be tested for moisture using a Calcium Chloride Test, and the result must not exceed 3 lbs. Ceramic tile, resilient tile and sheet vinyl must be well bonded to subfloor, in good condition, clean and level. Do not sand existing vinyl floors, as they may contain asbestos.

    Remember, a concrete slab on/below grade that measures dry today may become moist in the future due to rising groundwater. Installing a moisture barrier now may be viewed as an insurance policy against concrete becoming wet in the future; this will lead to possible subsequent floor failure. Higuera Hardwoods is not responsible for any site related moisture issues.

    Higuera Hardwoods strand woven engineered bamboo flooring is NOT WARRANTED OVER NON WARMUP INC. (www.warmup.com) Eelectrical radiant heat floor systems.


    For all installation methods:

    Tape measure, Wood, or plastic spacers (1/2"), Chalk line

    Tapping block, Crosscut power saw, table saw, Pry bar, or pull bar

    Pencil, Hammer, and 3M 2080 low tack Blue Tape

    High quality tongue and groove glue


    Make sure subfloor is tested for moisture first and is properly prepared.

    Since Bamboo, like wood, expands with any increase in moisture content, always leave at least a 1/2" expansion space between flooring and all walls and any other permanent vertical objects, (such as pipes and cabinets). This space will be covered up once you reapply base moldings around the room. Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this 1/2" expansion space.

    No area of connected flooring can span greater than 30 feet in width or 100 feet in length. For larger spans, install T-moldings or other transition pieces that allow the flooring to expand and contract. Begin installation next to an outside wall. This is usually the straightest and best reference for establishing a straight working line. Establish this line by measuring an equal distance from the wall at both ends and snapping a chalk line. The distance you measure from the wall should be the width of a plank plus about 1/2" for expansion space. You may need to scribe cut the first row of planks to match the wall in order to make a straight working line, as most walls are not straight. Work from several open boxes of flooring and "dry lay" the floor before permanently installing it, but never open more than a few boxes in advance. This will allow you to select the varying grains & colors and to arrange them in a harmonious pattern. The flooring may differ slightly in grain and color from the samples used in selecting the product. It is the installers' responsibility to work with the end user to determine the expectations of what the finished floor will look like. If the range of color in the shipment does not appear satisfactory after opening a few boxes, do not begin installation. Contact Higuera Hardwoods to arrange an immediate exchange. Dry lay a few rows, before starting installation to confirm your layout decision and working line. When laying flooring, stagger end joints from row to row by at least 8". When cutting the last plank in a row to fit, you can use the cut-off end to begin the next row. If cut-off end is 8" in length or less, discard it and instead cut a new plank at a random length (greater than 8") and use it to start the next row. Always begin each row from the same side of the room. To draw planks together, always use a tapping block, as tapping the flooring itself will result in edge damage. Fit end joints tightly together before tapping long edges together. When near a wall, you can use a pry bar or pull bar to pry close the side and end joints. Take care not to damage edge of flooring. For glue down & floating applications, use 3M 2080 Blue Tape to hold any pieces which might have side bow and need to be held straight & tight until the adhesive sets. Do not allow tape to remain on floor longer than 30 minutes and remove tape prior to cleaning floor with a cleaner. Do not apply tape to flooring that has been previously wiped with a solvent.


    For strand engineered click systems installations over approved radiant heat systems must have a tongue and groove glued applied in all the joints.

    Heavy objects such as counters, kitchen islands, and large stoves or refrigerators should be in place prior to the installation of a floating wood floor. Compressing a floating floor against the subfloor with excessive weight could inhibit the floor's ability to move in response to changes in humidity and may result in gapping or cupping.

    Laying Polyfilm: lay 6-mil Polyfilm with seams overlapped 8". Fasten seams every 18-24" with clear waterproof packing tape.

    Run the outside edges of Polyfilm up perimeter of each wall 4". Trim after flooring installation is complete.

    Laying pad: lay an equivalent 1/8" thick or thicker underlayment by butting edges, not overlapping. Tape

    Full length of the seam with clear waterproof packing tape. Always leave a 1/2" space between pad and all walls and permanent vertical fixtures.

    To install your first row, snap a chalk line parallel to your starting wall, if the wall

    is not parallel, adjust the chalk-line to compensate at this time. Layout your first row of flooring along

    this line. The tongue on the first row should be cut off to allow an expansion gap of min spacing is required on the perimeter of the room when this room is larger than 15' wide. Base

    board and quarter round can be installed to fill out the gap. Between 2 separate rooms, or in a case of a

    sill doorstep, a molding is required as well. In extremely dry environments, the gap should be

    decreased to allow for shrinkage. The opposite should be done for very wet environments.

    After laying the first row, starting from the left hand side lay out the second row, tongue facing the

    groove of the first row, making sure that all seams are at least 6 inches apart. To install the second row, lift the board at a 45° angle to row one. Be sure tongue and groove is secured tightly against one

    another. Tongue side against groove side; use a rubber hammer with a wood tapping block

    in addition, punch it lightly until the flooring closes tightly. To click the ends of the planks, use a rubber hammer and tapping block. In this order put together one row after another the long grooved part of the floor, which is the last row next to the wall, should also be cut off to keep a space at the edge of the wall, as recommended above. The threshold between two adjacent rooms should be kept spaced as well, or with an expansion joint. When you meet obstructions such as a post or wall, keep at least 1/2" spacing between the flooring and the object. Make sure to follow this instruction carefully.

    The floor will float as it is connected together ; we highly recommend a high quality carpenter glue to be added to the click joints and ends of the boards to ensure there is no gapping in the future.

    Clean up any adhesive that is on the face of the floor by using a damp rag - DO NOT ALLOW ADHESIVE TO DRY ON THE FLOORING SURFACE, as it is difficult to clean up without damaging the finish.

    Flooring should be one of the last items installed in a project. In order to protect the floors while other trades are finishing their work prior to final cleanup and turnover to the owner, use rosin paper and only use 3M 2080 Blue Tape to hold the rosin paper to the floor (other blue tapes may damage the finish). Clean the floor thoroughly before laying the rosin paper to ensure that no debris is trapped underneath. DO NOT USE plastic film or other non-breathing coverings as this can cause the floor to become damaged from humidity buildups.

    Remove expansion spacers and reinstall base and/or quarter round moldings to cover the expansion space. It is very important to nail the quarter round on the baseboard and not on the floor, as this will stop the normal movement of the floor.

    Dust mop or vacuum the floor thoroughly to remove any dirt or debris.

    Buff the floor with lamb's wool pads in order to remove any loose splinters, residues; footprints, etc.

    install any transition pieces that may be needed (reducers, T-moldings, nosing, etc.).

    If using glue-down or floating installation methods, do not allow foot traffic or heavy furniture on floor for at least 24 hours.

    Place walk-off mats at all entrances to help collect dirt and debris that could damage or dull the flooring finish.

    Install felt floor protectors underneath all furniture.






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